Interview with Magally Tello-Grandez
We spoke with our coffee producer Magally Tello-Grandez about current topics in the coffee world and her personal journey.
Yara: Why do you work with coffee? What excites you about it?
Magally: I hadn’t planned to work with coffee, even though my parents and grandparents were already coffee farmers and I have childhood memories of working with it. As I grew older, my grandparents aged and could no longer manage the physical labor on the farm. They asked my parents if they could imagine continuing the finca. In 2013, my mother and I decided to accept. I had always wanted to start a business, but didn’t yet know what kind. This felt like an opportunity to continue our family tradition. However, I agreed only on the condition that we would build our own brand, since my grandparents had mainly sold to cooperatives. That meant we had to educate ourselves further in coffee, as until then we only had experience in fieldwork. While expanding cultivation in 2014, we took courses in quality control and sensory analysis. I also suggested that my aunts, who are also coffee farmers, join us.
Y: How do you see the future of coffee? Will Arabica continue to dominate the market?
M: The situation is very uncertain. Although Arabica is the most produced and demanded variety, it is highly sensitive to pests and climate change. Robusta may eventually dominate because, even if perceived as lower quality, it grows in lowlands and is more resistant. As long as we can grow Arabica, however, we will continue to do so.
Y: What challenges did you face during the 2022 harvest?
M: I usually travel to the finca at the end of March or beginning of April, as I also manage the business in Lima. This year, the plants were in good condition and we expected a strong harvest, but heavy rains began and many cherries were knocked off the plants. Excess rain and shade also lead to fungal diseases, which are difficult to control. Production dropped significantly.
There is also a shortage of field workers. Many people no longer want to do manual labor and prefer less demanding work like livestock farming. Many men no longer want to work in the fields, yet harvesting requires physical strength. Women are also used to hard labor, but over time it leads to physical strain, such as spinal injuries.
Compared to other farms, we are also disadvantaged in terms of accessibility. The terrain is very hilly and rocky—even motorcycles struggle. These are areas we want to improve gradually.
Y: Have you and your sisters faced disadvantages as women in this industry?
M: I would say no—if anything, the opposite. People admire us, and it creates attention as awareness of women’s strength is growing here. The only limitation is physical strength, so we often have to work closely together. But we have always been supported. We are also very grateful for the positive feedback from your customers—it motivates us to keep improving, which is always our goal.
Y: Beyond accessibility, what is needed to improve coffee quality in the region?
M: There are several factors. First, education is lacking. In my case, I pursued education out of personal interest and managed to finance it as an investment in our future. But for most farmers, training is too expensive—around $1,500 for a comprehensive course. Naturally, they are discouraged.
As our business grew, I also had to build partnerships. Because we maintain high quality standards, the education of our neighboring farmers is very important. Farmers need to understand that harvesting without regard for quality leads to losses.
Infrastructure is another issue. The region is neglected by the government—there is still no proper road connecting us to the nearest city. The journey to Rodríguez de Mendoza takes two hours on dirt paths, making coffee transport extremely difficult.
Our high-altitude plots are located on a mountain, with a small village and beautiful landscapes. Reaching them is extremely challenging, especially under the sun. Bringing coffee down with donkeys and horses is equally difficult. Yet this is where our best coffee grows.
Sometimes coffee must be carried down the mountain in heavy rain. It is frustrating that the government does not invest in infrastructure here.
Y: What makes coffee from Amazonas special?
M: The coffee comes from a beautiful but little-known region. The high altitudes and fertile soils are exceptional. About 95% of the coffee is organic—hardly anyone uses pesticides—but this is not reflected in the price. Consumers also share responsibility here.
Farmers must sell to survive, but their work is not fairly compensated. Hopefully this will improve. We need more government support and better education for farmers. Peru is one of the world’s leading producers of organic coffee, and that should be recognized.
We ourselves are not certified organic because certification costs around $2,500—too expensive for an independent family. I already have too much work to manage that. Cooperatives often have certifications, but the system lacks transparency. Certifications are sometimes sold informally without proper verification.
There is a lack of awareness on all sides. Despite coffee being the second most consumed beverage in the world, quality is rarely valued. In countries like Colombia, there are institutions promoting coffee quality. In Peru, people drink all kinds of coffee—few care about quality.
Y: What are your plans for the future of Finca Grandez?
M: We want to continue growing and make coffee from our region more well-known. As a family, we also plan to develop a tourism offering, allowing visitors to experience coffee production firsthand, explore the region, and connect with other farmers. Step by step, we will expand these possibilities.